This year at last the trip I wanted to make for such a long time. The
trip to the Outer Hebrides. This year I had the time to plan this trip
properly. I wanted to take the Caledonian MacBrayne Hopscotch tour
number 9. First I did write a letter to get confirmed the wanted sailing
dates. Within a week I did receive the answer from Caledonian MacBrayne,
no problem. Than I had to pay through the Royal Bank of Scotland.
Don’t forget if you are paying from abroad to state, that it is at
“Our Costs” otherwise the operator doesn’t get the full amount and
the deal is off.
Caledonian MacBrayne the main
transporters these holidays
To book the Hook of Holland - Harwich ferry was a little bit easier. My
local tour operator AMRO Bank did take care of this.
Tuesday the 7th of
July Heerenveen - Colchester
Today
was the first time I couldn’t drive straight to the polder. Road
maintenance at Zeewolde was causing the trouble. Without further delays,
just in time reached Hook of Holland.
Hook of Holland Good Bye, the
holidays are here.
On board everything was
well-organised and good food too. The British customs were the same as
usual, looking in every corner of the camper, what’s your go and were
are you going to? The people in England are luckily a lot more
hospitable than the customs employees. Colchester camping is just a half
our drive from Harwich, so around eight o’clock I could settle down. In
just a few minutes, I did transform my VW transporter into a VW camper
to fool the Dutch road taxes, for lower taxes it’s better to have a
transporter in The Netherlands, but the British authorities don’t know
about this and at these holidays a camper is more useful. The “Crown
Inn” is close by and it’s a nice little Pub too. When I came in the
barkeeper said: “Another year already”, because I have been here
many times. My answer: Yes, and just the same please, a pint of real Ale is
the result.
Wednesday the 8th of July Colchester - Market Rasen
Next day at Bury St. Edmunds was a nice
market (also cattle) and good coffee too. The rest of the day I drove
through Norfolk and Lincolnshire. The Market Rasen campsite beside the
Race Course was easy to find.
Market Rasen Race Course Camp
Site
In
the evening you can take a nice walk along the racetrack grounds. The local
Brass band did have their exercises in one of the rooms at the
racetrack. Luckily they stopped around ten o’clock.
Thursday the 9th of July Market Rasen - Ullswater
It was a rainy and windy day, typical English
you can say. My target today was the Lake District. The Limefitt Park at
Ambleside was not so difficult to find, because I had been here before.
But I wasn’t welcome anymore, because I’m alone and it’s a family
campsite now. The lady of the reception could understand my astonishment
and irritation. After a little talk, she had to admit, that she saw no
reason not to accept me, but you know head office and so on and rules
are rules and all that kind of bullshit. I could really give vent to my
feelings about discrimination against people travelling alone and the
advantage the tourist industry takes of them. I wished them luck and did
find a nicer campsite run by the “Brothers Water Inn” owner at
Ullswater. A nice trip too, through the “Kirkstone Pass”.
Highest
Pub of England at the Kirkstone Pass, Lake District
Friday
the 10th
of July Ullswater
Today
I had a nice tour through beautiful surroundings and however it’s a
little bit busy on the roads. Nature looks still wild. The army had some
kind of display at Windemere to get new recruits, you could even bungee
jump.
Windemere
is a nice town with a lot of good shops and restaurants. Windemere still
has some of that old glory.
Saturday the 11th of July Ullswater - Motherwell (Glasgow)
The
A592 is a nice road to drive. Motherwell is a part of Glasgow the
campsite is very large and is beside a rowing course. The warden
wouldn’t let me stay at first, because at his view I had a
“Commercial Van” and it’s not allowed to camp in it. When I did
show him the inside of the Van it was all right.
At
the weekend there was a regatta. You had also Dutch competitors, I was
glad with it otherwise it should have been a very lonely night.
Strathclyde Park is very quiet at night.
Sunday the 12th of July Motherwell - Oban
Even
at a Sunday morning the M8 through Glasgow is very busy. But I did reach
Erskine Bridge without any delays and could go on to the more tranquil
north. At Lush I did take some coffee in an Inn where so some people say,
Paul McCartney drinks his coffee too on his way to Kintyre. Through
Argyll and the Glencoe it’s a very nice drive to Oban. You see a lot
of mountaineers when driving through the Glencoe. This morning I also
saw a caravan broken to pieces. Through the severe winds it started to
swerve and did hit a piece of overhanging rock.
Oban
campsite is at the bottom of the town, nearby a diving school and the
harbour. Caledonian MacBrayne is sailing to many destinations from Oban.
Like Mull, Barra and South Uist.
Monday the 13th of July Oban
The
weather wasn’t nice today, so I did visit a glass-works shop, they were
blowing different shapes out of just a piece of piping hot glass. Oban
is a nice city to nose about.
Oban Harbour
At
the campsite I did get new neighbours, five Dutchman in a very old car
(Citroën) and a tent that I think will not stand a lot of rough weather.
But they are nice and friendly.
Tuesday
the 14th
of July Oban - Pollacher
Sailing
was this afternoon around three o’clock. Lochboisdale, South Uist is
the next stop. I did take a picture of one of the passengers, I didn’t
know a 250cc. Suzuki could carry so much weight. It’s a miracle.
Ferry
from Oban to Lochboisdale, South Uist. A 250cc. Suzuki can carry a lot
of weight it seems.
The
sailing was calm at a smooth sea. There aren’t any campsites at South
Uist according the Lochboisdale Tourist Information Centre. Pollacher at the south coast is
however very popular by campers and it’s allowed to camp here. Camping
is allowed everywhere it seems. I did find a wonderful spot at a nice
beach and at a sunny day you can see America too I think. My closed
neighbours are a couple of Germans, about two miles away.
Pollacher
free camping at the Atlantic Ocean, between here and America there is only
water.
I
had a wonderful night, taking a walk along the beach, reading a book,
this is peace, this is life. At half past ten there’s still some
daylight left. At half past twelve I suddenly was awake, I heard a lot
of noise and bagpipes playing just behind the Campervan. Two Scots were
playing the bagpipes and a third one played the drums. They left after
about one quarter, but they were back at a quarter past one. I didn’t
respond to the noise, I wasn’t in need for a few drunken Scots. At a
quarter to two I only did hear the ocean again.
Wednesday the 15th of July Pollacher - Benbecula
At
the end of the road nearby the Pollacher Pub I did see the first
standing stone of many on these isles. Driving north you get a good
impression of the loneliness of “The Hebrides” and you notice there
aren’t any trees. You see also a lot of monuments beside the road.
Coffee at the “Orsey Inn” was good, the road to this Inn became very
narrow the further you came and it ended in just a path. I was the only
customer and had a friendly welcome. I suppose they don’t see a lot of
customers over here.
Benbecula
is actually a small Island in between North – and South Uist. Before
the second world war it wasn’t connected yet, but to hinder German
U-boats reaching the Allied fleet at Scapa Flow Churchill ordered to
build these causeways. Nice still, because it cuts out two ferries.
In
the afternoon the weather became real nasty. A Campervan is luxury than.
Awnings of another camper couldn’t hold it against the storm. I did
listen to the live coverage of the “Tour the France” at my shortwave
radio.
According
to the inhabitants of the Hebrides they have the depression expedition
centre over here. From here it’s distributed and is made the decision
where the depressions have to go; To the North (Scandinavia), To the
middle (The low countries and England) or to the south. And everyone
knows in every distribution centre there are always some goods left
behind. That’s case at the Hebrides.
Thursday the 16th of July Benbecula - Lochmaddy
Driving
along a B-road to Lochmaddy it isn’t busy. People do live here
scattered around, it’s all very remote and there isn’t a lot of
luxury so to see. Lochmaddy doesn’t have a campsite, but it’s
allowed to camp at the harbour parking. Campers just have taken this
piece land. Had a nice evening in Lochmaddy sending everybody at home a
postcard, to let everyone know “I’m all right and enjoying myself”.
The
Suzuki motorbike still carries his weight all the way from Oban. His
driver is waiting for the Uig ferry to the Isle of Skye. This ferry also
sails to the Isle of Harris. There are more passengers going to Skye
than to Harris.
Friday the 17th of July Lochmaddy - Drinishader
This
Friday morning the shops are closed. Strange. Boarding the ferry was a
strange experience; The first cars had to drive backwards onboard, they
will board at Uig, The last cars me included had to drive forward
onboard, because we were boarding at Harris.
Lochmaddy North Uist
At
the very primitive and soggy campsite at Drinishader I met a Dutch
couple from Apeldoorn. I did meet them also at Lochmaddy; We now had the
time to talk a little about our trip so far. For instance about the farm
alongside the road which had very unusual for this Isles a lot of trees
around the farmhouse. These trees had to fight the over here so common
westerly winds. They did grow small at the Westside and ended tall at
the eastside.
In
the night we inspected our stance, because we had some fear that the
wheels would sink away in the soggy underground. You could feel the
grounds moving, when walking over. The drinking water wasn’t very
clean and boiling it first is a must.
Drinishader
Campsite at Harris, soggy and primitive
Saturday the 18th of July
This
morning we didn’t have to shuffle our cars out of the mud. Along the east
coast I did drive to Rodel, Harris most southerly point. From here along
the west coast to Tarbert through magnificent nature. At first I did
planned to stay at Tarbert but the weather is so good that I decided to
drive to Stornoway, Lewis. Because Tarbert looks a little bit lonely and
I expect to have more fun at the bigger Stornoway campsite and city.
It’s Saturday after all. Stornoway is a lot busier than the rest of
the Hebrides. But that isn’t so strange because there are living more
people in this city than at all the other Isles together.
Laxdale
campsite isn’t busy but compared to the other campsites it’s crowded.
It is convenient for the city and to tour around Lewis. A Dutch boy from
the city of Rheden is spending holidays over here by bicycle. He
travelled by train from The Netherlands to Edinburgh and did cycle from
Edinburgh through Scotland to Lewis. Not something you expect from an
employee of the Ministry of Agriculture laboratories.
Sunday the 19th of July Stornoway
At
the most northern point of Lewis you find the "Butt of Lewis"
lighthouse. There are a lot of cats around the lighthouse.
Butt of Lewis
Nature
is very beautiful driving through the peat-moors. There isn’t anyone
working today. According to the amount of cars parked alongside the
church, I think that most of the people are attending
the Sunday service.
At
every house you see a big stacks of turf, for cooking and heating. They
burn their own land this way.
Monday the 20th of July Stornoway
This
morning, I did drive a lovely tour and from Stornoway to the world
famous “Callanish Stones”.
Callanish
Standing Stones at Lewis
At
a "Dun" (a centuries old pile of stones) I did meet the people
from Apeldoorn again. They were driving the same tour clockwise and I
did it anticlockwise. It started to rain so heavily that I had to run to
the car, but I was wet all over.
Tuesday the 21st of July Stornoway
Tolsta
Head was the go this morning. The road towards Tolsta Head wasn’t good
at all and the last few miles I had to walk. It started to rain very
heavily so after a short look, swiftly back to the car. The weather stayed like
this the whole day.
Stornoway,
Lewis view from the park
In
the afternoon I drove from Stornoway to Tiumpan Head. This road was much
better. The lighthouse people must like cats, because there were a lot
of cats here too, just as at the "Butt of Lewis".
Wednesday the 22nd of July Stornoway - Ullapool
The
ferry to Ullapool was right on time and the sea was calm. The campsite
at Ullapool looks very busy. Everything looks busy on the mainland,
coming back from the Hebrides. Knowing that this part of Scotland is
quiet, and still it looks busy.
Tonight
there was a realistic exercise of the Ullapool fire brigade. There was
an accident between a normal car and a tank-car. The fire fighters used
a lot of foam and the harbour was full of it after the exercise.
Thursday the 23rd of July Ullapool - Ballater
Today
I drove along Inverness, the A939 through the Grampians. A nice drive
with nice views and steep parts. Sheep are running loose at the road, so
you have to watch out. The highest parts of the Grampians are often also
ski resorts, where also are many activities during Summer.
Ballater
is an old village, 1986 the railway station closed. In early days the
Royal Family arrived at this station to stay at their castle. Almost
every shop in the village had the sign “by appointment to her Majesty”.
The village now is a place where you find many hotels and a campsite to
serve the tourists.
Friday the 24th of July Ballater - Edinburgh
The
drive through Breamer and the “Devil’s Elbow” to Edinburgh was
very nice. The busload of Dutch tourists wasn’t nice. I did over hear
them in a restaurant, the coffee wasn’t good the cake wasn’t good in
Holland everything was better. Stay at home than.
The
Edinburgh campsite “Little France” is very convenient for visiting
Edinburgh. The bus stop is in front of the campsite. You can see the
Craigmillan Castle from the campsite, I did visit the castle, it’s a
nice kept and small.
Saturday the 25th of July Edinburgh
Shopping
at a Saturday is nice special when the sun shines. The “Royal Mile”
is also a nice street to walk, a lot of small shops and Pubs. Rose
Street is for the thirsty tourists heaven.
Edinburgh Royal Mile
I
bought a few Tina Turner CD’s and four Tanith Lee fantasy novels, the
first is my favourite singer and the second my favourite female writer.
Sunday the 26th of July Edinburgh - York
Today
I drove along Jedburgh and the hilly A68 to York. I always stay at the
“Rawcliffe Manor” campsite when visiting York. The campsite has a
good restaurant and a nice Pub, very convenient after a long drive.
Nearby there are a lot of shops and the “Green Line” bus to York
city centre is close by.
Monday the 27th of July York
I
tried to visit the “Yorvik the Viking” exposition telling the
history of York, but it was to busy. I’ll be back another year.
York
has a lot of charity shops and so on. Nice to nose around, bought some
records, books and a lot more.
Tuesday the 28th of July York - Colchester
The
more you approaches the south the busier the roads. The A1 is very busy,
but nice to drive through and the “Little Chefs” are always in easy
reach. Did visit Cambridge for a while and than I drove through to
Colchester Camping.
The
supermarket is close by and I bought some Colman’s Mustard, Cider, Ale,
Salt & Vinegar and Cheese & Union Crisps. You cannot get these
goods in The Netherlands or they are very expensive.
Wednesday the 29th of July Colchester
Colchester
city is a nice city to shop and look around. I did go by bicycle.
Someone has stolen my pump, thieves are also here it seems.
Colchester The Oldest Recorded Town in England
Colchester
is an old city and has the charisma of it.
Thursday the 30th of July Colchester - Heerenveen
The
crossing of the North Sea was very calm. Heerenveen hadn’t changed the
last weeks. Your own bed sleeps well the first nights at home.
Impression from the holidays,
photo album 1992
